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Aswan
Aswan, Egypt's smallest governorate, lying 890 km south of
Cairo, has long been known as the "Gate of Africa". Much of its charm comes from the Nile River, which runs
through it, as well as from a number of small lush islands
in the Nile, such as the Elephantine Island. Aswan is
considered one of the oldest inhabited places in Egypt, a
center of worship during the Pharaonic era.
Aswan, Egypt's sunniest southern city and
ancient frontier town located about 81 miles south of Luxor,
has a distinctively African atmosphere. Its ancient Egyptian
name was Syene. Small enough to walk around and graced
with
the most beautiful setting on the Nile, the pace of life is
slow and relaxing. Days can be spent strolling up and down
the broad Corniche watching the sailboats etch the sky with
their tall masts or sitting in floating restaurants
listening to Nubian music and eating freshly caught fish. In
Aswan the Nile is at its most beautiful, flowing through
amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands
covered in palm groves and tropical plants. Explore the souk,
full of the scent and color of spices, perfumes, scarves and
baskets. View the spectacular sunsets while having tea on
the terrace of the Old
Cataract
Hotel (named due to the location of the Nile's first
cataract located here). Aswan has been a favorite winter
resort since the beginning of the nineteenth century, and
it's still a perfect place to get away from it all. Every
night Nubian dancers and musicians perform in the Cultural
Center, just off the Corniche. Folklore troupes recreate
scenes from village life and perform the famous Nubian mock
stick-fight dances. Aswan is a strategic location which
currently houses a garrison of the Egyptian army, but which
has also seen ancient Egyptian garrisons, as well as that of
General Kitchener, Turkish troops of the Ottoman empire and
the Romans. The city proper lies on the east bank of the
Nile. Relax here, visit a few mosques, but then prepare for
an adventure. The bazaar runs along the Corniche, which
continues past the Ferial Gardens and the Nubian Museum, and
continues on to the Cemetery, with its forest o f
cupolas surmounted tombs from the Fatimid period. Just east
of the cemetery in the famous area quarries is the gigantic
Unfinished Obelisk.
Just to the south of this, two Graeco-Roman sarcophagi and
an unfinished colossus remain half buried in the sand. The
most obvious is
Elephantine Island,
which is timeless with artifacts dating from pre-Dynastic
times onward. It is the largest island in the area. Just
beyond Elephantine is
Kitchener's Island
(Geziret el-Nabatat). It was named after the British general Horatio Kitchener (185?-1916)
who was sent to Egypt in 1883
to reorganize the Egyptian army, which he then led against
the Sudanese Mahdi. But the island is known for its garden
and the exotic plants the Kitcheners planted there, and which
continue to flourish today. On the opposite shore (west
bank), the cliffs are surmounted by the tomb of a marabut,
Qubbet el-Hawwa, who was a local saint. Below are tombs of
the
local (pharaonic) nobles
and dignitaries. Upriver a bit is the tomb of Mohammed Shah
Aga Khan who died in 1957. Known as the
Tomb of the Aga Khan,
it is beautiful in its simplicity. A road from there leads
back to the Coptic
Monastery of St Simeon,
which was built in the sixth century in honor of Amba Hadra,
a local saint. Just up the river a bit, there is also the old
Aswan dam, built by the British, which was enlarged,
expanded, but unable to control the Nile for irrigation.
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